An Argentinean couple in there early twenties we met in the town square, led us to find accommodation where they were staying for A$50R that was very comfortable and the guy who rented to us just a wonderful and colorful character. If we were able to speak on a common platform, we would have had great conversation and laughter. In the morning was Darlene’s quest for her morning cup of Java. We walked all over the town looking for it. It was elusive. We went to the restaurant where we had dinner and the door was open. When the last patron left, the staff must have followed them right out. The empty glasses and bottles of wine were where we had left them. No coffee was to be found.
We headed to the town square where the vendors were colorfully displaying their wares. The creviced faces of the old Inca descendants, with jet black hair under the gaucho hat, short hard working people dressed colorfully in Llama. They were quiet, passive salespeople, welcoming but no English.
So Darlene looked around for a tourist and spotted two and asked if they spoke English. That is how we met Annalisa from Stockholm, a middle aged woman traveling by her self who spoke no to limited Spanish. She had on a green head scarf wrapped almost as Laurence of Arabia, and green matching sunglasses. With here was an Italian friend married to an Argentinean, who spoke fluent Spanish. They too were on the Java hunt and we teamed up. Annalisa is an actress and singer. She has done Swedish stage performances, including musicals, television and some film. She hasd a 40 year old whom she described as the Old Testament and herself the New Testament. Strong relationships were elusive and she so loved Darlene and my story, bringing tears to her eyes many times. Emotional was the only way to describe her...in the most beautiful way. The world would be a better place if people could learn from Annalisa. No wonder she is a brilliant actress. How can you not be when so in touch with ones soul, and how can one touch another soul if one does not know one's own. She is looking for her “Capitan”, someone to explore the world with, to be her North Star. She had been in Buenos Aries for five weeks exploring theater opportunities and was on here last few days. We headed off to an elegant 2 hour lunch that could have been our home as it was light filled, earthen feel with huge window sills and windows that opened outward the way Darlene has always dreamed of. It was over lunch that Darlene and I returned to the question of where in the world we want to live. We know it will not be America forever. We are not the city type; do not need the vast stimulations of cell phones, television and traffic. We want the indoor, outdoor living with the open expanse of space. It needs to be a climate where I can garden and inspiring towards alternative construction. Maybe we will build a straw / adobe house. We will have solar power, and bring nature in to nurture our souls and be a home that welcomes and stimulates conversation and the spirit of mankind. We had ruled South Africa out for many personal reasons and its geographic isolation. Italy was appealing but not the prices and then there are the language barriers. Once more with Annalisa’s flamboyance, we visited the question of where and when.
The conversations continued back to her hotel in Tilcara, some 35 km away, for a swim and lounging and more laughter and tears of joy. There was WiFi and e-mails awaiting our attention. One deal had gone down the tubes with the economy that was a done deal. Then there was Cuba. We were being invited back to address not only the military leadership but the rank and files. They were being volun-told. Sitting at the swimming pool, watching the moon rise from behind the mountains and looking across the valley with Gauchos riding a few hundred feet away in a place that has not been touch by time, I used technology to secure the deal 7,000 miles away.
The Darlene and I bid Annalisa farewell who had given Darlene many gifts to lighten her bags, and I had told her that if she wanted to go sailing with her “Capitan” she would need to shed the physical bags. She was an airlines nightmare with all her luggage, and was proud of traveling in the finest comfort. We had made a new friend and put Sweden on our map as a place to visit because of Annalisa, the actress as we drove north to Humahuaca.
Humahuaca was different in ways I have difficulty describing. It is not as touristic as Purmamarca, but yet it is a destination. It spreads more distance and does not have the imposing peaks and mountain colors, was relatively flat nestled between the highway and the Rio Grande. We stayed at the La Hostel Sonada with the physically huge and even bigger hearted Patricia for A$110R including breakfast. Quiet pink rooms with a courtyard, pink again and very pleasant. The next morning we did our ritual walking around town, window shopping, talking to vendors from whom Darlene bought a necklace, then left heading for Yavi via Laguana Portezuelo, but the day had gotten away and we decided to remain on Route 9 for La Quiaca on the Bolivian border and the 17 km ride to the east to Yavi where we arrived early afternoon.
Time had stood still, or better yet, time had not arrived in this sleepy town. No one was around. The dogs slept in the middle of the dusty, barren main street, annoyed that someone had the audacity to drive that day into their domain. We were up in the mountain plains and the river ran breaking the desert terrain with just enough green to offer contrast and maybe a blade of grass for a few cows. There were very few places to stay. We chose the hostel right as you come into town for A$80R that offered great double rooms. Water for the shower was heated by wood. Yavi was cold, especially when the sun went down. A radiant heater made or nest on a sold adobe bed comfortable.
After choosing our bed for the night, Darlene and I decided to have a picnic. There was an area that said camping and we saw nice trees and tables that were inviting. We had bought stuff from fruits, cheese, drinks and a table cloth, just for such a moment. Some folks had a fire going and the smells were most inviting. We set up and enjoyed the ambiance. In the shade it was quite chilly but in the sun very pleasant. Fall had truly arrived with the changing of the leaves and colors.
After we had finished, I went over to the tap to wash our two utensils and my hands and five people having a braai as South Africans say, or a barbecue, invited me over. They wanted to know where we were from as it was obvious we were not local. They were Bolivians. Immediately we were offered meat and to join them. No Spanish and no English, but plenty of gestures and words and we were figuring things out. The meat was so delicious, the best I have eaten in the country. It took a lot of explaining that Darlene is vegetarian, but they figured it out. We spent a good half hour chatting and eating. This was our high light of the day. They made my day and I hope enjoyed our company.